So this is a bit of a long one because we experienced so much–I’ve always had a crazy conception of Kathmandu as this mysterious and mystical place full of warriors and some kind of ancient magic…ridiculous, I know, but it’s the image that pops into my head (thanks Hollywood). As far from reality as this perception may be, our first night in Kathmandu came close to making it seem real. When we stepped out of our hotel and walked down the narrow, dusty labyrinth of roads that makes up Thamel (the older part of the city) we couldn’t help but feel a special energy buzzing through the air. The streets were so narrow it felt like the buildings were closing in on us- cars and motorcycles zoomed past us in a chaotic dance that filled the air with dust and made everything staticky. I was mystified by the view around me- the dusty air made it look like a fog had descended upon the city, and the headlights from cars looked like blurred red lights desperately searching for some clarity. With every breath, you take in a mixture that must be about 60% air, 40% dust- so that every minute Kathmandu literally becomes part of you. As unhealthy as that sounds, it all came together to create this unreal picture that absolutely blew us away.
One of the most unreal moments was visiting Durbar Square that night. It’s one of the oldest sites in Kathmandu and a UNESCO world heritage site home to numerous incredible temples dedicated to the kings and Hindu gods. In the dim light, each temple looked monumental and the images of Shiva the destroyer were even more intimidating and foreign. It was truly like stepping into a totally different world.
Shiva the destroyer
The next day we ventured out into the streets to go sight seeing and take in the city by day. Looking up we couldn’t help but feel awed by how beautiful and ancient most of the buildings of Thamel must be. The architecture was so unlike anything we’d seen so far. For the first time we felt like we were walking through parts of an ancient Asian city untouched by colonial influence. Even recent historical events were visible everywhere we looked- ruins and partially collapsed buildings every few blocks reminded us of the tragic earthquake that decimated so much of Nepal. As we walked around we noticed awkward empty spaces, and couldn’t help but wonder what magnificent buildings used to fill these voids.
A small stupa we stumbled upon
Nepalese women in their beautiful red Saris
We took a pilgrimage to Swayambhu Stupa, one of the oldest religious sites in Nepal and one of the holiest Buddhist sites in the world. They believe it was founded sometime between 464-505 CE, which is difficult to comprehend given the immensity of it all. It is a perfect representation of the harmony between the two major religions in Nepal- Buddhism and Hinduism. The stupa itself portrays Buddha’s eyes, yet surrounding it are images of Hindu significance. I was entranced watching Hindus pray and practice the rituals that are said to bring luck if completed correctly. What a different and intriguing world.
Hindus spinning prayer wheels
The Eyes of Buddha
The next morning we did our Everest flight. There are no words to describe this experience. Flying over the Himalayas and getting to see the mythical, powerful Mt. Everest up close was life affirming. I was moved to tears by the grandeur and magnificence of what nature could create, and filled with joy by the fact that we live in such an incredible world. Honestly only pictures could do it a bit of justice:
Mt. Everest
The most astonishing part of our trip was our time at Pashupatinath Temple. Mike talked about this in his post, but I wanted to elaborate a bit more on what we experienced. Now, Pashupatinath is a very shocking, emotional, uncomfortable and frankly fascinating place. It has been around for over 1,700 years and is one of the most sacred Hindu sites in Kathmandu. When we first walked into the complex of temples, we noticed a massive cloud of smoke and a strong smell in the air- this is where Hindus (and some Buddhists) of Kathmandu come to cremate their dead. The cremations and mourning period are done in public, openly for everyone to see. On one side the rich and influential are cremated, on the other- everyone else. As foreigners you are only allowed to watch the “common” cremations from a certain point across the river. We stood in bewilderment and awe as we watched an entire cremation ceremony take place on the bank of the river before our eyes (disclaimer for those who are horrified- the bodies are burned under a pile of wood so you can’t actually see that part). It was at once moving and incredibly uncomfortable. In this moment we were sharing in the tremendous loss and suffering of a family we didn’t know, yet it felt very intimate and personal- to the point that we both got a bit emotional.
We noticed men digging through the water while the cremations took place, and were shocked to find out that they were digging for gold jewelry that might have fallen off the bodies- this is considered a profession of sorts. So here we are watching this otherworldly scene unravel before us, while fake priests and trinkets vendors accosted us for money- and I mean really aggressively accosted us. It was all too much to handle, and we had to step away. After a series of even more uncomfortable and slightly scary events, it was time to go. We left feeling rattled, overwhelmed, and astonished by everything we had experienced. Was it worth getting to observe such an important aspect of life in Kathmandu? Yes. Would I go back? No. It was once in a lifetime, and very interesting to experience, but too much to handle.
Cremation Site
Pashupatinath Temple
The next morning we both woke up with terrible food poisoning and spent the day sick in bed, but thankfully woke up feeling fine the next morning for our trip to Thailand. Whether Buddha, Shiva, or the almighty force of Mt. Everest inspired this, who knows, but I left thinking that there definitely is a bit of magic in this ancient city.
Now on to Chiang Mai!